Dress Sizes - Who Needs 'Em?

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So I was hanging out with Paris Hilton, eating chocolate biscuits, when we started discussing the huge differences in vintage sewing patterns through the ages. Paris agreed with me that it's an interesting insight into the changing ideals of the feminine shape.

For example, take this pattern from my collection from the 1930's:

The difference of 5" between the bust and hips suggests a boyish figure was the ideal. The waist isn't even mentioned - I suppose it wasn't important!

Then, in the 40's, the waist appears, and the bust is larger with smaller hips:

In the 50's, we get more curvaceous:

The waist is a full 8" smaller than the bust - 2" smaller than the previous decade -  and the hip size is almost the same as the bust. Even though (according to studies) women's waists were naturally smaller in proportion to the rest of their bodies, it was totally accepted to wear girdles and other foundation wear on a daily basis. In fact, it was expected - there's a scene in 'Anatomy of a Murder', where Jimmy Stewart is trying to make Lee Remick a convincing, virginal witness, rather than the 'loose' woman she appears to be. The best way to achieve this? He tells her to 'wear a girdle, especially a girdle'. Enough said.

Then, the 1960's - the measurements are similar to the 50's, but the styles certainly aren't:

My mother was in her 20's in the 60's, and loved the liberation of fashion at this time. She wasn't a naturally curvaceous bombshell type, and suited the boyish fashions of the 60's. For her, it was a relief to not have to suppress her waist with a girdle, or to pad her bust, just to fit into clothes.

Today, on the rare occasion I buy clothes, I'm usually a UK 10-12, but then it depends on the designer/manufacturer. In the 1930's, I'm a size 18; in the 50's, a size 16; in both cases I would need to alter sections to make it fit comfortably. (If you really want to get into it, I'm a 42 in Italy, a 40 in France, and a 38 in Germany) These sizes really don't mean anything, yet through my work, I've seen first hand how women will walk away from a gorgeous outfit just because they don't want to wear a larger size. Why are we so hung up on numbers that seem to be chosen at random? Why can't we just refer to measurements, like they do in menswear and lingerie?

Anyway, I don't really have a point, other than just make sure your clothes fit you well, and who cares about numbers.

And what does Paris think? She would have an opinion, but she lost interest and is too busy trying to make the measuring tape into an accessory:

Beautiful Buttons

Aren't they fabulous! Every time I visit Dalston Mill Fabrics, I look longingly at these buttons, and finally I've resolved to make something based around them. I've had this pattern for a while, and I think these buttons will be perfect for it:

I know it's summer, but I really fancy a chic black dress with some texture or pattern in the fabric. I think this fits the bill: a cotton-mix swirly, brocad-ey lightweight fabric. And I've chosen a turquoise fabric for a lining, just for a bit of fun!

I'm off to get started......

Normal Service is Resumed

Sorry I've been away from blog-land, but there's been some rubbish to deal with at work that's been getting me down, but it's all sorted now, so you'll be seeing more of me!

The car blouse is done at long last. After my dilemmas about what to wear it with, and my complete rejection of Mr Needles' suggestion of purple, here I am wearing it with an old purple pencil skirt I made years ago, and it looks fine.

Caught off guard with a grumpy face.

The blouse was pretty straight forward to make; the only thing I altered were the sleeves, which I shortened, as the original had 3/4 sleeves which looked a bit too business-like for this fabric.

Button closure at back of neck

I also added a little car button at the back of the neck; the pattern recomended a boring old hook and eye, but I'm a sucker for cute buttons. I also added one at the left side, under the zip closure.

Button closure at hem

Hope you're enjoying the lovely weather, and see you soon!

What Colours Go With Pale Green?

I know it looks like something you would make into little boy's pyjamas, but I couldn't resist this fabric, so bought some with the intention of making the blouse below (the one on the left in red):

My dilemma is this : I don't really know what colours go with pale green, therefore I'm going to be rather limited in what I will be able to wear the finished blouse with. I have some denim pedal pushers which will be fine, and a few reliable black pencil skirts, but that feels a bit limiting. So I'll probably end up making something new, like another skirt, to go with this top. My husband suggests purple, but he always says that, because it's his favourite colour! Does anyone out there have any ideas?

On a different note, I included the detail above from the instructions inside the pattern because I love the line drawings - I think they are things of beauty! I'm one of those weird people that can sit and read vintage knitting and sewing patterns the way other people read novels, and I'm often filled with awe at the way they were formulated without the use of computers, or probably any technology, other than rulers and pencils, and the experience of those writing them. And there are never any credits - who were they?

Anyway, here's to 'em, because without them I'd have many of empty hours and a much poorer wardrobe!

I'm In Love With This Wool

After my recent successes with knitting, I decided to move on to something a bit more ambitious. I found this gorgeous extra fine 4-ply while on a trip to Edinburgh last year, by a company called Artesano. I bought a few balls with absolutely no idea what I would do with it - I just liked it too much to pass by. I tried a few attempts at some gloves, but it wasn't really right; it's an Alpaca wool, and and therefore a bit 'hairy' and hard to work with on fine needles.

After a few tension tests, I realised it would knit up the same as a 2 or 3-ply. Woo hoo! That meant I could make up one of my many vintage patterns. I decided on this beauty (the one on the top left) because it didn't seem too difficult:

Progress has been good so far - it's pretty quick to knit up, and there is a lovely lace pattern around the neck.

The work looks really narrow on the needles - I was worried it would be too small and all my efforts would go to waste! - but the design is such that it stretches around the figure.

And make sure you check out Artesano. According to their website, they are a small family business, who support socially conscious wholesalers, which is cool. They even have some free patterns to download on their website, one of which has a Scandinavian feel:

If I get time, I might actually knit this in tribute to my favourite program, 'The Killing'!